Purses: Antique & Vintage Handbags, Mesh Bags & Beaded Bags
Collectible purses span from 18th-century embroidered reticules through Victorian mesh and beaded bags to 20th-century designer handbags by Hermes, Chanel, and Louis Vuitton. The market divides into two broad categories: antique and vintage bags valued for craftsmanship and historical interest, and luxury designer bags valued for brand prestige and fashion cachet. Both categories have passionate collector bases, dedicated auctions, and well-established price hierarchies.
Categories & Identification
Antique Bags (Pre-1920)
- Beaded bags: Steel-cut, micro-bead, and glass-bead bags, primarily from France, Germany, and Austria; scenic and floral designs worked in tiny beads
- Mesh bags: Metal mesh in silver, gold, or base metal; Whiting & Davis and Mandalian are the major American makers
- Sterling silver bags: Engraved, repoussed, or engine-turned purses with chain handles
- Chatelaine accessories: Small bags and cases attached to belt-mounted chatelaine chains
Vintage Bags (1920s-1980s)
- Lucite bags: Clear and colored acrylic handbags from the 1950s by Wilardy, Llewellyn, and others
- Art Deco compact bags: Evening bags with built-in compacts, lipstick holders, and cigarette cases
- Novelty bags: Figural and themed bags by Enid Collins, Judith Leiber, and others
Designer/Luxury Bags
- Hermes: Birkin and Kelly bags; the highest-value collectible handbag category
- Chanel: Classic flap bags, 2.55 reissues, and limited editions
- Louis Vuitton: Monogram canvas and limited-edition collaborations
Auction Price Ranges
| Item | Low | Mid | High |
|---|---|---|---|
| Beaded bag (scenic, fine) | $50 | $200 | $800 |
| Whiting & Davis mesh bag | $30 | $100 | $400 |
| Sterling silver purse | $75 | $250 | $1,000 |
| Lucite purse (1950s) | $50 | $200 | $800 |
| Judith Leiber minaudiere | $200 | $800 | $3,000 |
| Hermes Birkin (standard) | $5,000 | $15,000 | $100,000+ |
| Chanel Classic Flap | $2,000 | $6,000 | $20,000 |
Condition Factors
- Beaded bags are fragile; check for broken or missing beads, torn linings, and damaged frames
- Mesh bags should have intact mesh with no holes or separated links; plating wear on base-metal mesh reduces value
- Leather bags must be free of cracks, deep scratches, and staining; patina is acceptable on vintage pieces
- Original hardware (clasps, chains, locks) must be present and functional
- Interior linings should be clean and intact; replaced linings reduce value on antique bags
- Designer bags require authentication; serial numbers, date codes, and construction details must be verified
Collecting Tips
- Beaded bags with scenic designs (castles, gardens, landscapes) bring the highest prices in the antique category
- Whiting & Davis mesh bags are well-documented with a devoted collector following
- Lucite bags from the 1950s are a growing market driven by vintage fashion collectors
- The designer bag market is heavily brand-driven; Hermes Birkin bags have appreciated faster than many traditional investments
- Authentication services are essential for high-end designer bags; counterfeits are sophisticated and widespread
- Proper storage (stuffing, dust bags, controlled humidity) preserves leather and prevents hardware tarnishing