Buttons: Collectible Fasteners from Every Era
Antique and vintage buttons constitute one of the most diverse and affordable collecting fields, encompassing materials from carved shell and hand-painted porcelain to stamped brass, cut steel, and molded Bakelite. The National Button Society, founded in 1938, established a classification system that organizes thousands of button types by material, construction, and decoration. Serious button collecting spans from 18th-century gilt metal coat buttons through Victorian picture buttons to mid-century studio and art buttons.
History and Development
- Pre-1700s: Buttons primarily decorative; fastening done by hooks, laces, and pins
- 18th century: Gilt metal, paste jewel, and hand-painted enamel buttons for men's coats become fashionable
- 1830s-1900: Golden age of the picture button; stamped brass with detailed figural designs
- 1840s-1870s: Black glass buttons mass-produced, especially after Prince Albert's death (mourning fashion)
- 1900-1940s: Celluloid, Bakelite, and other early plastics revolutionize button production
- Mid-20th century: Studio buttons by individual artists emerge as a collecting niche
Major Collecting Categories
- Picture buttons: Stamped brass buttons with figural scenes (animals, people, plants, objects), 1860s-1910s
- Black glass: Pressed and molded black glass buttons in hundreds of patterns
- Porcelain and china: Hand-painted and transfer-decorated ceramic buttons
- Cut steel: Faceted steel riveted to a base, creating a sparkling effect; popular 1780s-1860s
- Shell and pearl: Carved and engraved mother-of-pearl and shell buttons
- Bakelite and celluloid: Colorful early plastic buttons, 1920s-1940s
- Uniform buttons: Military, railroad, police, fire department, and livery buttons
- Enamel: Champlevé and cloisonné enamel buttons, often from France
Identification and Classification
- NBS classification: The National Button Society system categorizes by material, then by decorative technique
- Backmarks: Military and uniform buttons carry manufacturer marks (Scovill, Waterbury, etc.)
- Material testing: Distinguish glass from jet, Bakelite from celluloid, using standard tests
- Size: Measured in "lines" (40 lines = 1 inch); size affects value within a type
Auction Prices and Market Values
| Category | Typical Range | Exceptional Pieces |
|---|---|---|
| Picture buttons (brass) | $5-$30 each | $150+ for rare subjects |
| Black glass (individual) | $1-$10 | $50+ for rare patterns |
| Cut steel buttons | $5-$25 | $75+ for large ornate |
| Enamel buttons | $10-$50 | $200+ for fine work |
| Bakelite (carved/unusual) | $5-$25 | $100+ for figural |
| Uniform/military buttons | $5-$40 | $200+ for Civil War era |
| 18th-century gilt metal | $20-$100 | $500+ for documented |
| Studio/art buttons | $10-$50 | $150+ for known artists |
Condition Factors
- Shank integrity: Original shanks must be intact; missing or replaced shanks reduce value
- Surface condition: Scratches, corrosion, and worn detail diminish appeal
- Paint and enamel: Original paint or enamel must be substantially intact
- Matching sets: Buttons in matched sets or on original cards command premiums
- Backmark clarity: Legible manufacturer marks on uniform buttons are essential for identification
Collecting Tips
- Join the National Button Society for access to classification guides, shows, and fellow collectors
- Picture buttons offer the most visual appeal and widest variety for new collectors
- Original retail cards with matched buttons are highly desirable display pieces
- Study the NBS classification system to communicate effectively with other collectors
- Button shows remain the best venues for buying, as knowledgeable dealers can assist with identification