Tiffany Gold: Fine Gold Jewelry & Objets d'Art by Tiffany & Co.
Tiffany & Co. gold encompasses the firm's celebrated gold jewelry, decorative objects, and accessories produced from the 1850s to the present day. Under Charles Lewis Tiffany and his successors, the company established itself as America's foremost gold-working jeweler, winning the Grand Prix at the 1889 Paris Exposition for its gold craftsmanship. Tiffany gold pieces include jewelry designed by masters like Jean Schlumberger, Elsa Peretti, Paloma Picasso, and Angela Cummings, as well as presentation boxes, accessories, and decorative objects that showcase the firm's unparalleled metalworking skill.
Identification & Marks
Tiffany gold jewelry bears "TIFFANY & CO." stamped or engraved on the piece, accompanied by gold purity marks: "750" for 18-karat (the firm's standard), "585" for 14-karat, or "375" for 9-karat (primarily British market pieces). Designer pieces carry additional markings such as "Schlumberger" for Jean Schlumberger designs. Pattern numbers and order numbers appear on larger pieces. Pre-1900 pieces may show "Tiffany & Co." in various typefaces reflecting their era. Authentication requires familiarity with mark styles across different production periods, as counterfeit Tiffany jewelry is prevalent.
Major Designers & Periods
- Jean Schlumberger (1956-1987): Fantastical naturalistic designs featuring enameled birds, flowers, and marine creatures. Among the most valuable Tiffany jewelry
- Elsa Peretti (1974-2021): Organic, sculptural forms including Bone cuffs, Bean pendants, and Mesh jewelry
- Paloma Picasso (1980-present): Bold, graphic designs with Mediterranean influences
- Angela Cummings (1968-1984): Nature-inspired pieces using gold with inlaid hardstone, wood, and damascene techniques
- Victorian/Gilded Age (1837-1900): High-Victorian jewelry featuring diamonds, colored stones, and elaborate goldwork
- Art Nouveau Period: Jewelry reflecting the naturalistic Art Nouveau aesthetic, overlapping with Louis Comfort Tiffany's influence
Auction Price Ranges
| Item | Price Range |
|---|---|
| Elsa Peretti pendants/rings | $500 - $5,000 |
| Elsa Peretti Bone cuffs (18K) | $3,000 - $15,000 |
| Paloma Picasso designs | $1,000 - $10,000 |
| Angela Cummings pieces | $2,000 - $15,000 |
| Schlumberger brooches | $5,000 - $100,000+ |
| Schlumberger bracelets/necklaces | $10,000 - $500,000+ |
| Victorian diamond jewelry | $3,000 - $100,000+ |
| Gold presentation boxes | $2,000 - $20,000 |
| Gold desk accessories | $1,000 - $10,000 |
| Art Nouveau period jewelry | $5,000 - $200,000+ |
Condition Factors
Gold jewelry should be examined for wear to settings, loose stones, and metal fatigue at stress points (clasps, hinges, links). Enamel on Schlumberger pieces is particularly vulnerable; chips, cracks, or losses in enamel significantly reduce value. Repairs should use period-appropriate techniques; solder marks from crude repairs are detectable and reduce value. Stones should be checked for chips, scratches, and replacement. Original Tiffany boxes and pouches add 10-20% to value. Engraved or monogrammed pieces sell for less unless the inscription has historical significance. Gold weight alone provides a floor value, but artistic and brand premium far exceeds melt value for authentic pieces.
Collecting Tips
Schlumberger pieces represent the pinnacle of Tiffany gold jewelry collecting and have appreciated consistently. Early Elsa Peretti designs from the 1970s are increasingly sought after as vintage pieces. Angela Cummings pieces made during her Tiffany tenure (1968-1984) are distinct from her later independent work and command premiums. Victorian and Edwardian Tiffany jewelry offers access to superb craftsmanship at prices below comparable European jewelry houses. Authentication is critical; have pieces examined by a qualified gemologist familiar with Tiffany marks and construction. Original Tiffany documentation, receipts, and boxes significantly enhance value. The secondary market through major auction houses (Christie's, Sotheby's) provides the most reliable pricing data for significant pieces.