Buttonhooks: Victorian and Edwardian Dressing Tools
Buttonhooks are small handheld tools with a hooked metal tip, used from the mid-19th century through the 1920s to fasten the numerous tiny buttons on high-topped shoes, boots, gloves, and clothing. As buttons were the primary fastening method before the widespread adoption of zippers (patented 1917, common by 1930s), buttonhooks were an essential daily accessory. They were produced in an enormous range of handle materials and styles, from plain steel wire to ornate sterling silver, making them an appealing and affordable collecting category.
History and Context
- 1850s-1870s: High-button shoes become fashionable; buttonhooks become essential accessories
- 1880s-1910s: Peak production; handles produced in every conceivable material and style
- 1890s-1920s: Advertising buttonhooks become popular promotional giveaways
- 1920s-1930s: Zippers and snap fasteners gradually replace buttons; buttonhook use declines
- By 1940: Buttonhooks largely obsolete except for specialized glove use
Types and Materials
- Sterling silver handles: Repousse, Art Nouveau, and engine-turned designs; often hallmarked
- Celluloid handles: Colorful molded plastic in figural and geometric forms
- Bone and ivory handles: Carved or turned handles, sometimes with inlay
- Mother-of-pearl: Polished shell handles, often on glove hooks
- Advertising: Steel hooks with printed or embossed handles promoting shoe stores, brands, and services
- Combination tools: Hooks combined with shoehorns, boot pullers, or corkscrews
- Folding/retractable: Hooks that fold into the handle for pocket carry
Identification and Dating
- Hallmarks: Sterling silver handles carry hallmarks identifying maker, city, and date
- Advertising text: Business names and addresses on promotional hooks can be dated through city directories
- Handle style: Art Nouveau (1890s-1910), Art Deco (1920s-1930s), and Victorian (pre-1900) styles help with dating
- Hook shape: Glove hooks are smaller and more delicate than shoe hooks
Auction Prices and Market Values
| Category | Typical Range | Exceptional Pieces |
|---|---|---|
| Common steel/wire hooks | $3-$10 | $20+ for unusual forms |
| Sterling silver handles | $20-$75 | $200+ for Art Nouveau |
| Advertising buttonhooks | $10-$40 | $100+ for rare businesses |
| Celluloid figural handles | $15-$50 | $100+ for unusual forms |
| Mother-of-pearl/ivory | $15-$50 | $125+ for elaborate |
| Combination tools | $20-$60 | $150+ for multi-function |
| Folding/retractable | $15-$45 | $100+ for mechanical |
Condition Factors
- Hook integrity: The steel hook must be intact and not bent, broken, or rusted through
- Handle condition: Cracks in celluloid, chips in pearl, and dents in silver all reduce value
- Advertising legibility: Text and graphics must be clearly readable on promotional hooks
- Silver marks: Clear hallmarks enable dating and add to value
- Plating: Silver-plated hooks with worn plating are considerably less desirable than sterling
Collecting Tips
- Advertising buttonhooks offer fascinating local history and are popular with both tool and advertising collectors
- Sterling silver examples with Art Nouveau designs have crossover appeal with silver collectors
- Buttonhooks are compact and easy to display, making them ideal for collectors with limited space
- Look for buttonhooks in estate lots, sewing baskets, and old shoe store stock
- Combination tools (hook plus shoehorn or corkscrew) are particularly sought after