Fans: Decorative Hand Fans from the 18th to 20th Century
Hand fans are among the most elegant and collectible accessories in the decorative arts, encompassing exquisitely crafted objects of silk, lace, paper, ivory, bone, mother-of-pearl, and wood produced from the 17th century through the early 20th century. Originally essential fashion accessories, fans were status symbols that reflected the artistic styles of their era, from Baroque and Rococo painted silk fans to Art Nouveau and Art Deco examples. The finest examples combine masterful painting, carving, and material quality.
History and Development
- 17th century: Folding fans introduced to Europe from Asia; become essential accessories for aristocratic women
- 18th century: Golden age of European fan-making; painted silk and vellum fans with carved ivory sticks
- 1700s: Major production centers in France, Italy, England, and Spain
- 19th century: Mass production makes fans accessible to the middle class; materials diversify
- 1880s-1920s: Art Nouveau and Art Deco fans; advertising and souvenir fans proliferate
- Post-1920: Fans decline as fashion accessories; collecting interest grows
Types of Fans
- Folding fans: The most common type; sticks connected by a leaf (mount) of silk, paper, vellum, or lace
- Brise fans: Made entirely of overlapping sticks (ivory, bone, horn, or wood) without a fabric mount
- Fixed (screen) fans: Non-folding fans on a single handle, including Asian round and paddle fans
- Advertising fans: Printed paper fans promoting businesses, products, or events
- Mourning fans: Black silk or crepe fans for periods of bereavement
- Cockade fans: Circular fans that open 360 degrees
Identification and Evaluation
- Sticks and guards: Material (ivory, mother-of-pearl, bone, tortoiseshell, sandalwood) significantly affects value
- Mount decoration: Hand-painted scenes on silk or vellum are the most valuable; printed paper is less so
- Country of origin: French fans are generally the most prized, followed by Italian and English
- Period: 18th-century fans are the most valuable; 19th-century examples vary widely
- Subject matter: Classical and mythological scenes, fete galante subjects, and historical events command premiums
- Condition of the rivet: The pivot at the base must function properly for the fan to open and close
Auction Price Ranges
| Item Type | Typical Range | Premium Examples |
|---|---|---|
| 19th-century paper advertising fan | $10 - $40 | Rare subject: $60 - $200 |
| 19th-century painted silk fan | $50 - $200 | Fine painting: $300 - $800 |
| 18th-century painted fan | $200 - $1,000 | Exceptional: $1,500 - $5,000+ |
| Ivory brise fan | $100 - $500 | Carved decoration: $600 - $2,000 |
| Mother-of-pearl mounted fan | $80 - $300 | Elaborate carving: $400 - $1,500 |
| Art Nouveau/Art Deco fan | $100 - $400 | Signed artist: $500 - $2,000 |
| Lace fan | $50 - $200 | Fine Brussels or Chantilly: $300 - $1,000 |
Condition Factors
- Mounts: Silk and paper are fragile; tears, foxing, and fading are common and significantly affect value
- Sticks: Broken, cracked, or replaced sticks reduce value; ivory and mother-of-pearl should be intact
- Rivets: The pivot mechanism must function; fans that cannot open properly are worth less
- Painting: Hand-painted decoration should be unfaded and intact; touchups reduce value
- Lace: Should be intact without holes or patches; lace deterioration is difficult to repair
Collecting Tips
- 18th-century French painted fans represent the pinnacle of the category
- Ivory fans are subject to international trade restrictions (CITES); verify legal status before purchase
- Fans with identified painters or documented provenance command significant premiums
- Advertising fans are an affordable and historically interesting collecting category
- Proper storage is essential: fans should be stored open or half-open in acid-free boxes away from light and humidity
- Fan collections display beautifully in shadow boxes or specially designed fan cases